Wine
making is an art and requires knowledge of plant science, statistics,
agriculture, weather and environment.
Like me, most North Americans don't know much about wine, but we talk
about it endlessly. Why talk about wine? Beer is usually associated with
sports, liquor with aggressive cocktail parties and wine with
reflection.
These reflections required reflective, inductive and deductive
thought, but moderate wine drinking promoted reflective discussion that
helped crystallize my ideas.
In 1748, Montesquieu published "The Spirit of Laws;" his estate
also produced wine. The English bought many copies of the book and wine
sales increased which led Montesquieu to quip: "The success of my book
in that country contributed to the success of my wine, although I think
the success of my wine has done still more for the success of my book."
A major benefit of living in the Frankfurt area was proximity to
vineyards. We learned about wine by drinking it. When people came to
visit, we drove along the Rhein river through to Koblenz, turned left
and drove along the Mosel river stopping frequently at vineyards to
taste and buy wine. One might ask - "How could you drive and drink all
day?" Sip, don't drink wine if you intend to buy cases of it.
For my first wine tasting, I drank all of fifteen 0.1 liter
glasses that significantly numbed my taste buds. As a result, I bought
50 bottles of wine that tasted like pee. There are many grape varieties,
but most red wines are made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir,
Syrah (Shiraz) and Zinfandel grapes; white wines are made from Riesling,
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Chenin Blanc grapes.
In most countries, the grape used to make it describes the wine;
except in France, where it is described by region: Bordeaux, Burgundy,
Champagne, Beaujolais, etc. Making wine is more complicated than
stomping grapes into juice, letting it ferment and then bottling it.
Fine wine is like most fine art: a combination of the best materials
(grapes), the best technology, and well-defined processes that are used
to create wine by the artist/vintner. The weather must help: too little
or too much sun, too little or too much rain, too high or too low
temperatures can result in bad grapes. Growing, harvesting, fermenting
in a stainless steel barrel, aging in oak barrels and bottling take more
than a year.
The best wines in France
grow in lousy soil. Rocky, chalky and mineral poor soil force the vine
roots to go deep and struggle to stay alive. The stress of this struggle
sometimes produces the best grapes; other times they whither or rot.
When problems make you struggle, you can grow to greatness like a fine
wine; or you can just whine; your choice.
If we are going to give the appearance of knowing something about
wine, we need a little more terminology:
- Varietal character -
each grape has a specific smell and taste but reflects many flavors;
some wine experts think Sauvignon Blanc should smell a little like
cat piss (honest).
- Integration - components of the wine (acid, tannin, alcohol,
sugar) are interwoven to balance the flavor.
- Expressiveness -
wine's aroma and flavors are well defined.
- Complexity - multiplicity of flavors change with each taste.
- Connectedness- bond between wine and its terroir: land, soil
slope, elevation, and climate where the grape is grown. When you
read a wine label, it describes how wonderful the wine is and lists
a bunch of flavors which I always thought were artfully made up by
an English major. They are not; there is actually a list. Here are a
few for:
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13/01/2009 04:24 PM |
(continued)
- Whites: apple, apricot, banana, coconut, fig, lemon,
lime, orange, asparagus, olives, almond, hazelnut, yeast, cloves,
cinnamon, ginger, white pepper, gardenia, geranium, honey suckle,
rose, chalk, flint, hay, straw, oak, toast, vanilla, piss.
- Reds: blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, strawberry,
prunes, asparagus, olives, truffle, all types of chocolate, coffee,
mocha, espresso, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, licorice, cedar,
pine, geranium, rose, violet, oak, toast, vanilla, cola, game, tar,
leather, manure.
Now we know five important words and a bunch of flavors; never mind
that we don't know exactly what they mean, few do. It's like talking
about politics, astrology or abstract art; it's not the content of what
you say but how you connect harmonious sounding adjectives.
It helps to read the wine label to get this partly right. Before we
can describe the wine, we must first taste it. Swirling and sniffing the
wine is an art form in itself. Swirling will tell you about the
viscosity of the wine (how thick it is). The slower it runs down the
glass the more viscous. You can say something like: this wine has "nice
legs." I don't know what this means, but it will make you sound
sensuously knowledgeable.
You then need to tilt the glass 45 degrees, stick your nose inside
the glass, and give it a good sniff. Be careful not to snort liquid;
blowing b oogers
and wine on the wine steward is considered very bad form.
After swirling and sniffing
the wine, sip and slosh it around in your mouth, but don't gargle. You
then nod to the steward or host who serves everyone else and fills your
glass last.
You are now ready to say
something incomprehensible about the wine, but peek at the label so you
are not too far off. It might go something like this: This wine seems
fairly well integrated, but with a touch too much acidity. It expresses
itself with well-defined flavors of licorice, cedar, and mocha.
After another sip, say: The
wine isn't too complex, but now I taste blackberry with hints of
raspberry. This wine reflects the terroir (land, soil, climate) of its
Napa valley roots. If you taste flavors of cat piss or manure, it's
probably not good to mention it. Your host might not understand.
You may have no idea what you
just said, but almost nobody else will either. If you learn to talk like
this on a variety of subjects, it may even get you nominated for some
political office.
Consider this a first
lesson. We have not talked about acidity, tannins, sugar, aging,
champagne, growing regions, varietal grapes, wine technology and
methods, etc. But, you can sound like an expert around people who know
absolutely nothing about wine.
Remember to start off
by saying: I don't know much about wine but.... If you want to become a
real expert, read Karen Mac Neil's 900 page book: "The Wine Bible."
Unfortunately, you won't be

Key Term: Terroir - land, soil slope,
elevation, and climate - where the grape is grown bonds with the
vintner's art and science to produce fine wines.
For Reflection 1
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